Dispatch #19: Home Decor

My mom asked me to post pictures of my new apartment, so I'm posting a few today. There are only pictures from my bedroom because that's really the only room that I've made any effort on. The common spaces in the new apartment are still in flux. If anything exciting happens, I'll keep you posted.


The bed and photos wall:


The gallery wall:


The books and photos wall:


There are more detailed photos at my Flickr site (I've added notes to them). Check out this, this and this.

Dispatch #18: The Coteau, again

Well, I'm back, back in the land of real Diet Coke, trustworthy tap water, predictable public restrooms, and English as the most common first language, and it's good to be home.

My final flight left Tokyo around sunset yesterday evening and our plane proceeded to chase the sun across the Pacific and North America. We caught up with the sunshine (and returned to afternoon/early evening), somewhere over the Rockies. About 9 or 10 hours into the flight, I opened my window and confronted what looked like a familiar sight and, upon checking my flight tracker, I confirmed that it was, indeed, the Dakotas. The sky was perfectly clear and after a few minutes of watching the prairie glide by, I identified Aberdeen in the distance (with a little help from the flight tracker).

Almost immediately, I noticed the speckled effect that is created by the numerous lakes of the northeast part of the state. I don't think I've ever viewed the state from that high before and, as it turns out, the coteau is pretty easy to identify. I kept the window open long enough to spot, without help from the flight tracker, the place where Big Stone Lake and Lake Traverse form the the divot in the border between South Dakota and Minnesota. At that point, I returned to my reading.

I took somewhere close to 2000 photos while I was in Asia and I've also offered to host my traveling companion's photos on my Flickr site. So, if you're interested in seeing what I've been up to, check in there over the next few days. My photos should all be up in the next few hours, and I'll work on organizing them and adding my friends' photos in the next few days. If you don't have the address of my Flickr homepage, email me and I'll send it to you.

Dispatch #17: It's Independence Day in Vietnam

And we're in Saigon. Not surprisingly, given the brief refresher-course in Vietnamese history that Nicole and I gave ourselves this afternoon, there's not a great deal of celebration happening here. In fact, other than the large number of flags and government-issued banners and posters on display, today seems to be a day like any other.

We spent the last few days in Hue, Danang and Hoi An, all of which are beautiful. Nicole and I both caught colds, so the last two days in Hoi An (possibly the hottest and most-humid place I've ever been) were something less than comfortable. We flew into Saigon last night and I spent much of today walking around the city, in the rain. Despite the rain and sickness and the endless entreaties from street vendors and cyclo drivers, I still love this country. It's hard not to respect a people who have endured as much as the Vietnamese and it really is a gorgeous place.

Tomorrow morning, we're taking a bus to the beach at Mui Ne and the next day another bus to the town of Dalat. We'll spend about 48 hours in Dalat before flying to Hanoi and then back to Bangkok. On Friday, we return to New York. This trip has been incredible, but I'll be ready to head back to the U.S.

Dispatch #16: Organized Chaos

First things first: I love Vietnam.

We've spent the past four days in Hanoi and Halong Bay and I'm smitten. Halong Bay is easily one of the most remarkably beautiful places I've been. We took a junk boat from Halong City into the bay and then explored a huge cave, kayaked, swam and hiked around and on the limestone islands.

And Hanoi? Crazy, but in a way that is not at all overwhelming or frenetic like Bangkok. The traffic is terrifying, but we've slowly become adept at stepping into the street and trusting that the hoardes of motorbikes will simply stream around us (rather than killing us, which is what four girls used to walk signals would expect). We're staying in the Old Quarter and on most of the corners there are bars selling draght beers (bia hoi) for what we've calculated to be 12.5 cents a glass. One of the guidebooks described beer as the "new tea" in Vietnam and considering the number of people nursing a glass right now (it's 9am), that seems about right.

If you have a few minutes, google the Ho Chi Minh Museum. We went there the first day and it's now my favorite museum, ever (yes, it beats out the Spam Museum). We also saw HCM's embalmed body this weekend. Bizarre.

Early each morning, loudspeakers blast what I'm assuming to be government announcements into the streets and that's kind of annoying. Aside from that (and really, it's a communist country, so the announcements shouldn't be a huge surprise), I really love it here.

Dispatch #15: Beach, Cambodia, Beach

So, here's the last week in super-fast recap:

Koh Chang was pretty.

Cambodia and Angkor Wat are overwhelming.

Koh Samui is probably even prettier than Koh Chang. And the water is really calm.

Dispatch #14: Bangkok

We've spent the last three days exploring Bangkok and I'd be lying if I didn't admit that I'm pretty relieved to be moving on tomorrow. The city is definitely interesting and there are a number of truly remarkable things that we've seen and done. However, the heat and the noise is more than a little oppressive.

On our first day here, we started out by walking around Chinatown which is an assault on the senses. The narrow sidewalks are crowded with every kind of street vendor possible as well as hordes of moving people. The roads are filled with hectic and loud traffic. On top of that, the cooking smells and exhaust fumes combine to form a sort of haze over the entire area. It's overwelming. We spent the rest of that first day walking around the city and ended up at a rooftop bar at one of the city's tallest hotels. New Yorkers that we are, we all felt better with a good drink and a good view. That night, I was also able to meet up with a friend I've known since high school who is also traveling through Thailand on her bar trip.

We spent Day Two doing most of the big tourist attractions (temples and palaces). Wat Pho was probably my favorite if you're in a Googling mood.

And today, we visited a huge open air market. Aside from the heat, it was a great way to spend the morning and early afternoon. The exchange rate makes shopping here pretty fun. After that, we had a decidedly American afternoon: we went to a huge mall, filled primarily with American stores and restaurants, and watched The Bourne Ultimatum at the mall's movie theater. It was a nice, air-conditioned break from the city.

Tomorrow we're headed to Koh Chang, another island. It's much more developed than the last island we visited, so it might not be as peaceful of a beach experience. There are, however, a lot more activities on the island -- waterfall hikes and elephant treks among them. I'm looking forward to it.

Dispatch #13: Thai keyboards are easier than Japanese keyboards

Carolyn and I have spent the past few days on the island of Koh Mak, in the easter Gulf of Thailand. Virtually everywhere we've been on this and the surrounding islands looks like a movie set. Blue ocean, white sand beaches, palm trees, etc. It rains a lot, but the rains are very predictable and tend to stop from mid-morning to late afternoon, which is kinda perfect.

Today, we took a boat (it's technical classification is probably "dinghy") to the neighboring island, Koh Kahm to go snorkeling. It was pretty fantastic. Although, I should note that I've never snorkeled before, so my standards might not be reliable. In other generic news, the people here are just as friendly as the guidebooks promised and the food is consistently excellent.

And now, I'm headed back to the cabin for a much-needed shower. We only have cold water on the island, so I'm really looking forward to a hot shower in Bangkok tomorrow. The result of the combination of salt water, cold showers, and curly hair is something slightly less than attractive.

Dispatch #12: TOKYO

yep, i am in tokyo. and, this keyboard is tricky. i have abandoned contractions entirely because the apostrophe key keeps messing me up (it is above the 7). not much to report. bottles of diet coke are much cheaper here than at any american airport. also, yen are fun.

oh yes, alaska is enormous. it lasts FOREVER. and now we are in asia. asia. it is possible that a part of me did not really believe asia actually existed until it popped up outside the airplane window today. yes, i know people from asia. beside the point.

Dispatch #11: It's over!

The bar exam is over!

How did it go? I honestly have no idea. And, since I'm occasionally superstitious, I'm not going to write anything more about the test on the off chance that I'd jinx myself.

Instead, I'm working on a couple posts that will include more South Dakota pictures. Until they are finished, I've decided to provide other entertainment. A week from now, I'll be in Thailand and as such, today was the first day in what will hopefully be a vigilant effort to prevent myself from getting malaria. I just took my first malaria pill a few hours ago and can now verify that "upset stomach" deserves its spot on the "common" side effects list. Below, for your enjoyment, I've posted a list of the not-so-common side effects of the pills. Needless to say, I'm hoping my current queasiness is the worst of it.

Special side effects:

• tingling in your fingers or toes
• difficulty walking
• seizures
• shaking of arms or legs that you cannot control
• nervousness or extreme worry
• depression
• changes in mood
• panic attack
• forgetfulness
• confusion
• hallucinations (seeing things or hearing voices that do not exist)
• violent behavior
• losing touch with reality
• feeling that others want to harm you
• thoughts of hurting or killing yourself
• rash

Dakota Dispatch #10: Over so soon

So, my time in South Dakota is very nearly up; I'm headed back to New York tomorrow. As always, I'm a little sad to leave but pretty excited for the things to come (although the bar exam, not so much). If you are saddened by the thought that my thrilling posts from South Dakota are about to end, I have good news for you: there's at least one or two posts that have been delayed because of studying. I will hopefully post them in the next couple of weeks.

Also, you should continue to check back here during August. When I find internet access on my bar trip, I'll try to posts updates about where I am and what I'm doing. I'll also probably post some pictures when I return in September.

If you can, send good thoughts my way next week. I really don't want to do this bar exam thing again.

Dakota Dispatch #9: More news from the Coteau

Last Saturday, my parents and I set out on another Eastern South Dakota adventure. We started the day by driving to Gary, a tiny town on the Minnesota border that was celebrating its 135th anniversary. We rolled into town just in time to watch a soapbox derby. This was the winners' heat -- featuring the winners from the three preliminary heats (my favorite part of the picture is actually the charming spectator in the background):


Next, Gary residents celebrated its birthday with bed races:


After all that excitement, we wandered town for a bit and I took a picture of my favorite Gary landmark, its windmill:


Next, we headed southwest toward the town of Estelline, where 125th anniversary celebrations were scheduled for the day (apparently, one of the railroads first came through SoDak in 1882, so 125th anniversaries are happening around the area almost every weekend this summer). We arrived in Estelline in time to wander around a small flea market/craft show (where my parents bought me a light-weight quilt as a graduation present), try some alcoholic rhubarb slush, and watch their parade.

The parade was pretty impressive for a town of 675 people; it lasted over an hour and included some SoDak parade staples as well as a few surprises.

The parade began with a rather patriotic pipe and drum corps from Sioux Falls. What was interesting about them was not so much their role in the parade (although, they were quite good), but the fact that we saw them about two hours after their parade performance, all dressed in their regular clothes, but still wandering the town in formation piping and drumming away. In fact, they kept piping and drumming as they all walked into the gas station where we had stopped on our way out of town. I guess they like to play.


Like any good prairie parade, there were lots of tractors:


And some old Scandinavians:



And, um, a De Lorean?


Okay, that's probably not a De Lorean (since I don't think they came in orange), but still.

After Estelline, we drove to Sioux Falls, where I had dinner with some college friends I don't see nearly enough and my parents tried out a new Chinese buffet (one of their favorite things). I ended the day back in Watertown, slightly sunburnt and smelling of smoke (the friends in Sioux Falls have a great fire pit) and mosquito repellent.

Summer, it seems, is in full swing.

Dakota Dispatch #8: SoDak and beyond.

Last weekend, I ventured out of the state for the first time since I've been home. Wednesday night, I drove to Fargo and had dinner with my brother. We then made our way to one of teh bars near his college where they have 75 cent taps on Wednesdays (on Tuesdays, the beers are smaller, but only 35 cents). Around 2am, Andy dropped me off at the Amtrak station and shortly after 3:00, the train showed up. The trip ended up taking something like 16 hours, which was good for getting some studying done but not much fun. Although, I will say that Amtrak's not a bad way to travel if you're not on any kind of schedule. It's comfortable and if you're traveling with a group, it could be a lot of fun.

Anyway, my weekend made me love Chicago a little more than I had before. This was the first time I've visited the city that I haven't stayed in Hyde Park and I think that makes a huge difference. I'd tell you all about my shopping, restaurant and bar adventures there, but I'm not sure the stories are all that intersting for anyone other than me. Although, I will note that I ate at Orange before I left Sunday morning and as just as I sat down to right this post, I turned on the Food Network and Giada De Laurentiis (who, I totally have a girl crush on) was eating there, too.

My train ride back to Fargo was fairly uneventful, but for the asshats who decided to sit in front of me (they were rapping along, loudly and badly, with their cd players) and the total toolbag who hit on me (he is, of course, considering law school). Andy earned major brother bonus points by picking me up at the train station at 5am (he'd stayed up all night since my train had been scheduled to arrive at 3:00). I hung out in Fargo/Moorhead for the morning and then made my way back home.

Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures from the weekend. Instead, I'm including a picture that I took on my way back from Castlewood (the town where my mom teaches) the other day. It's kinda dumb, but this sign has been making me giggle for years.

Dakota Dispatch #7: Coteau des Prairies

I live on the Coteau des Prairies, or as South Dakota's tourist information more often refers to it, the "Glacial Lakes and Prairies" region of the state. It's a nice place, full of lakes and a greener, hillier prairie than the flatlands of central SoDak and West River's desolate ranchland.

I'm telling you this because my parents and I went on a little tour of the region this Saturday. We started by driving north to Pickerel Lake:


Once there, we had dinner at the Pickerel Lake Lodge where they make a mighty good burgers and chislic (a South Dakota specialty):


After dinner, we drove around the lake, stopping at a state park and the former site of Camp Wisagoma. My mom worked at the camp when she was in college and I attended a brief camp there the summer before 7th grade (an experience that left me lifelong hatred of horror movies). The camp flooded a few years ago and was torn down. Now, the land is being developed and is quickly filling up with fancy lake cabins.

Next, we drove to Waubay and from there headed south, back toward Watertown. On the way back, we ventured off paved roads for a while in order to search out a farm owned by some family friends. This road was our bumpiest:


We found the farm after a few wrong turns and stopped briefly to enjoy their view (they weren't home). Nothing says "welcome" like a skull:


We ended the night at our own Lake Kampeska, stopping at one of my favorite bars, The Prop, for refreshments (The Prop is one of the few bars I've been to around here that actually serves beer on tap rather than just bottles), video lottery, and a couple games of shuffleboard.

Dakota Dispatch #6: Edmunds County

Earlier this week, I went with my mom and an aunt to visit my Grandma, who lives in Roscoe, SD. The current population of Roscoe falls somewhere below 400; needless to say, it's a pretty quiet place. We went for a few evening walks and, um, saw the sights.

This is Roscoe's "Lovers' Lane:"


Roscoe, from just east of town:


Downtown Roscoe (bustling, I know):


One afternoon, we drove to Bowdle (which has, I think, nearly 600 residents) and had lunch at the drive in that another one of my aunts owns and manages:


While there, we learned about Bowdle's annual Tower Days. Apparently, Bowdle is the home to the tallest municipal water tower in South Dakota. Not only that, but the water tower was intended for the town of Timber Lake, but when the train carrying it stopped in Bowdle, the people there assumed it was theirs and unloaded it. Timber Lake asked for the tower back, but Bowdle just decided to keep it. And now, decades later the town celebrates that auspicious event with a banquet, street dance, sumo wrestling and dancing Cossacks. I kid you not.

Here's the tower:

Dakota Dispatch #5: Pottery, after

As promised, here are the after pictures.

The plates turned out pretty much like I wanted. I might add more glaze and fire them again to see if I can get the blue to be more blue and to fill in some of the spots where the glaze is kinda thin:


The wall pots:


The bird bath:


And, as a special treat, the fountain my mom made:

Dakota Dispatch #4: Pottery, before

Last week, I took a class with my mom entitled, "Pottery for the Garden." Accordingly, I made two wall pots and a birdbath bowl. I also made two plates that really aren't garden-appropriate. Tonight, we glazed and I'm now feeling very dusty. Anyway, the photos below are pre-firing. The pots come out of the kiln Saturday morning, so I'll post pictures then to demonstrate the magic powers of heat.

The wall pots, this glaze is named "Blue Earth:"



The birdbath bowl should end up with a cream base (and possibly a leaf pattern on the bottom that shows through) and mint green leaves:



And, the plates. The one with the admittedly cheesy NYU theme is supposed to end up blue and white while the geometric patterned one is supposed to be green, blue and white. However, both the blue and green glazes used are a bit temperamental, so they might end up with a fair amount of brown mixed in.

Dakota Dispatch #3: The Office

My office is up and running! Not only is it easily the cheapest room I've ever rented, I also kind of smitten with it. It's in an old building and hasn't been used in a few years. One of my dad's co-workers is renovating a big chunk of the building's other offices to create a big apartment for his family. In the meantime, they're letting me camp out in one of the smaller offices. Here's an inside look at the place where the magic that's going to make me a real lawyer will now be happening.

The view looking in:


The view looking out:


One of my favorite features is the old light switch:


And I'm oddly charmed by the deadbolts and their round knobs:


Not to mention the thingy that opens the window above the door:


Also, the former inhabitant of the office left some patriotic reminders behind for me:


And when that's not enough inspiration, there's this, too:

Dakota Dispatch #2: Memorial Day

Yesterday, my dad informed me that today would be the beginning of my summer shooting lessons. We began with a refresher course on how different types of guns work (something he's taught me no less than 5 times before but refuses to believe I'm capable of remembering). Then, after collecting pop cans and a cardboard box to serve as our targets, we headed out to the shooting range. Unfortunately, this is what we found when we arrived:


Luckily, the drive out there is very pretty:


And, the change in plans gave us time to stop at Memorial Park (my favorite part of the Lake Kampeska) on the way back to town. There's a small set of hiking trails there that I haven't been to in at least five years. The trails have been updated in the past few years and are looking pretty good:


This new gazebo marks Watertown's own "Inspiration Point:"


Alas, our trek ended on a sad note when we stumbled upon this casualty:


This evening, my mom and I set up my new office. Afterward, we met up with my dad and stopped at the Zesto for ice cream. So, in summary, my day included time at the lake, cleaning with my mom and ice cream. I've basically traveled back in time 15 or 20 years.

Dakota Dispatch #1: Home

I arrived in South Dakota last Friday and my parents celebrated my arrival with an order s of fried chicken gizzards from the truck stop near the Sioux Falls airport. The next day, my mom talked me into joining her on a flower-buying expedition to one of the local nurseries.



Saturday night was equally exciting -- dinner with relatives. My parents and I showed off photos from their trip to New York and I ate too many cookies. Sunday included a trip to the lake for a couple hours of fishing with my dad. We didn't have much luck -- this was our only catch:



And, Sunday afternoon, I found an office to rent for the next two months. It's an old office downtown and it currently looks like a slightly-seedy private detective's office. I love it. It's also walking distance from my favorite restaurant/coffee shop, a bakery, and the public library. So, there's a good chance I'll be failing the bar exam.

Anyway, it's good to be home. It's not super-hot yet and there's been a lot of rain recently so everything's green and fresh-smelling. Since New York is rarely either of those things, I'm feeling like the decision to study here was a good one.